All the Stops!

2012-01-09T20:10:00.001-06:00

A quiet night at home with Ribot

Some Fave paintings from the De Young

2008-02-23T22:34:00.009-06:00

Gerhard Richter

Thomas Eakins

John Singer Sargent

My new most favorite Helen Frankenthaler

The Legion of Honor Museum

2008-02-22T23:35:00.013-06:00

Given by Alma de Brettville Spreckles, this beautiful copy of the Hotel de Salm (Paris - Legion d'Honneur) has an amazing collection of sculpture by Rodin (friend of Mme. S), and a small but choice collection of European art and decorative objects. Pretty squisite here.

The Fantin-Latour painting above is my favorite F-L - small, perfect, moving, and conveys in its simplicity the whole range of human emotion - he was quite a painter! Fell in love with this painting 20 years ago and have carried its image with me since.

The museum sits atop Lincoln Park at the far west end of San Francisco - the views across the ocean to the Golden Gate Bridge and the city are breath-taking.

These are a few of my faaaaav-o-rite thiiiinngs.....

A room from a Parisian town house

a domed wooden ceiling from a 17th C. Spanish castle

Some nice Japanese ebony on a Oeben console

painting by Degas

painting by de la Tour

self-portrait by Tissot

THREE! Fantin-Latours!

Rodin!

More Rodin!

Some Random San Francisco Pix

2008-02-22T23:25:00.012-06:00

The new De Young Museum

2008-02-21T20:24:00.003-06:00

I am so excited about this building! It's phenomenal, it's primal, it's extraordinary, it's an amazing showcase for art, it's beautifully crafted, it's so well-thought, it's powerful, it's moving, it's profoundly spiritual.

Designed by Herzog & De Meuron to replace a boring classical structure, it rises up out of the ground as an organic whole. Clad in perforated copper and finished with beautiful wood and stone, it absolutely takes your breath away. There's nothing else like it.

There are ribbons of windows that keep you connected to the outside and the views of Golden Gate Park, as well as to the interior courtyards and gardens. Most spectacular of all is the tower which torques up out of the museum and contains an observations floor with 360' views of San Francisco.

No picture can do justice to the total of this achievement - I can only show you bits of it - all fantastic.

I had the same emotional response to this building as at the Villa la Roche - very moving.

The new De Young Museum

2008-02-21T20:11:00.012-06:00

St. Mark's, Berkley

2008-02-21T12:00:00.003-06:00

The first Mission-Revival building in California, 1904, this lovely church is across the street the UC Berkley campus and is a lively place. Charming architecture, a v. nice Flentrop organ, great acoustics, some beautiful details and stained glass, and a v. welcoming Music Director and Rector

The high ceiling is supported by elegant beams, the facade pipes of the organ are flamed copper, the Sanctuary with its exquisite altar is placed behind an intricately carved screen, and the choir sings from a very advantageous acoustical location. And, ecco, the two Maestri: George Emblom (St. Mark's Music Director & Organist) and Richard Clemmitt!

St. Mark's, Berkley

2008-02-21T11:28:00.008-06:00

Grace Cathedral

2008-02-20T13:17:00.002-06:00

The Cathedral sits atop Nob Hill - a very high hill, v. steep from the hotel, scary coming back down at nite! There are several exquisite things to see: the Keith Haring triptique in memory of all who've died from AIDS, the copies of the Baptistry doors from the Duomo in Florence, the long nave with its unfinished vaulting (earthquakes, you know), and of course, the exquisite E. M. Skinner organ.

Grace Cathedral

2008-02-20T13:08:00.008-06:00

Christ Church Choir in San Francisco

2008-02-20T12:59:00.002-06:00

Just back from a glorious - and warm! - weekend in San Francisco with the Christ Church Choir - a lovely weekend singing at St. Mark's, Berkley, and Grace Cathedral.

Beautiful music in beautiful places. St. Mark's is a wonderful building - the first Mission Revival church in California (1904) with a very nice Flentrop organ and a fun and very talented Music Director: George Emblom. The church is across Bancroft Avenue from the UC Campus - Olmsted designed! We had a great time there on Saturday and Sunday and the welcome was warm. I enjoyed the morning at the Flentrop. Grace Cathedral is a very interesting building - Gothic in poured concrete! Amazing that poured concrete can be so "grace"ful. The organ is an E. M. Skinner with contributions from G. Donald Harrison and, I have to say, one of the most beautiful I've ever played! Such gorgeous, lush, expressive sounds in a room with 8 seconds of reverberation. I had to choose, while practicing, between weeping at the beauty of it and actually getting to work. What an amazing life!

So, of course, I didn't sit still - off the plane and straight to the Legion of Honour Museum to see my favorite Fantin-Latour, off to the new De Young Museum (Herzog & De Meuron) which is one of the most stunning and intriguing new buildings of this century - it made me weep! San Francisco Symphony for Tchaikovsky, dinners with Gerry Montana (Catch and Nob Hill Cafe), a tour around the UC Berkley campus including their weird and very scary art museum, the San Francisco Ballet dancing Giselle, and hobbing and nobbing with all the fun Winnetka folks.

and then back to cold Chicago......

Burghley House

2007-09-28T10:21:00.000-05:00

Peterborough Cathedral was a magical start to Saturday - and just up the road is one of the great Tudor treasure houses - Burghley. Built by Elizabeth I's chief minister, it is an enormous and splendid house. Altho the exterior is v. much the same as when Mr. Cecil built it, the interior has gone thru many renovations and changes by later generations. One sees high baroque painted rooms (LaGuerre), some 18th C. decor, a lot of Regency which is v. charming, and some heavy-handed 19th C. decor - all of which, more or less, lives together fairly well. Burghley is remarkable for the fact that the collection is mostly complete - the family hasn't had to sell off objets to keep the house from falling down.

A v. relaxing lunch in the Orangerie garden next to the fountain was a charming end to the visit.

Burghley House

2007-09-28T10:17:00.000-05:00

Peterborough Cathedral

2007-09-24T21:41:00.001-05:00

On Saturday morning, Randy Manges and I drove up to Peterborough to see the fascinating Cathedral - a Norman building, added to in the Gothic style right up through English Perpendicular, later additions to the decor in the 19th C., and following a recent fire a complete restoration of the beautiful painted wooden ceiling.

The Cathedral is often overlooked on the Big Cathedral Tour and shouldn't be - it's quite beautiful, has striking juxtapositions such as Norman arches next to fan vaulting, a gothic porch added to the Norman front, an elaborate 19th altar in the severe Norman choir, and is the burial place of Katherine of Aragon (Henry VIII's first wife - divorced) and the original burial place of Mary Queen of Scots. The central tower has absolutely exquisite painted vaulting.

And, we got to hear the organ - a v. nervous and harried guest organist practicing the weekend's repertoire!

Peterborough Cathedral

2007-09-24T21:33:00.001-05:00

Wimpole

2007-09-24T21:30:00.000-05:00

After leaving Burghley, I whizzed down the road to Wimpole Hall just outside Cambridge - and of course had to have a moment of car drama - I hit a BIG rabbit and he broke part of the underside of the car. So the nice repairman came, fixed it, and I got into Wimpole Hall for the last 50 minutes of the day!

A beautiful house, 18th C., added to and refurbished during the 19th and 20th Centuries. Some amazing architects including our man Kent and John Soane did some amazing things. The last owner did a very good restoration, making it a v. livable house in the process.

Wimpole Hall

2007-09-24T21:25:00.001-05:00

Boughton

2007-08-21T19:39:00.000-05:00

After leaving Knebworth, I whizzed up the A1 to Kettering - actually figuring out the back roads way to get to a Very Big House which has intrigued me for a long time. Boughton is called the Versailles of England - The house built by Ralph, 1st Duke of Montagu, Ambassador to the court of Louis XIV, who became very fond of all things French while living there, and bringing French style back to England at a time when France was not particularly popular! He was fortunate to do this after Louis had expelled the Huguenots from France and so was able to employ the many fine craftsmen among that number.

Boughton is an exquisite and mysterious place - a Tudor house fronted by the massive and elegant French-style state rooms added by Ralph. In appearance it is severe, elegant, beautiful and hides a rambling and charming collection of Tudor buildings, wings, courtyards and nooks. Outside, symmetrical French - inside, elegant English Baroque! The Duke collected French furniture, decorative arts, French/Italian/Dutch paintings, Chinese porcelain - the collection is stupendous! I have to say that it was beyond all expectation and I'm still finding it the most intriguing of the many Big Houses I saw on this trip - and as you're yet to read, I saw some amazingly thrilling houses!

Below are some pictures of the exterior: a view from the drive, two views of the front, the stables, and a view of some thatched cottages in a little village down the road.

2007-08-20T21:33:00.001-05:00

We arrived at Heathrow on Friday, the 3rd - The Choir boarded busses to head up to Cambridge, I boarded the Hertz bus, picked up a cute little Ford Focus and drove up to Knebworth House just north of London. I wanted to see this place because Sir Edwin Lutyens (architect, fabulous designer, renovator of Lindisfarne Castle (Durham Trip), Castle Drogo (Worcester trip)) was the brother-in-law of one of the previous (or so) generation of owners and had a great deal of influence in the renovation of the house and gardens. It's a grand Tudor house that's been reduced, added to, redesigned in various periods both good and not so good, and has a very romantic aura, as well as a very tangible romantic aura in that Rudyard Kipling was the father of one of the wives. There's an excellent exhibition of his works and memorabilia, including a re-creation of his study at Knebworth: same table, books, a wax dummy of him wearing his famous dressing gown! He's a little dusty. Lutyen's renovations turned out to be more in the variety of paint choices, placements des objets, general re-organisation - and it is, of course, brilliant. The garden is especially beautiful - quite formal and in parterres, with various rooms and arcades. In the Libary there is a very charming self-portrait by Lutyens with a clever nod to his government buildings in Dehli.

The Choir

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Some pictures of the Choir: the beautiful Elizabeth Clemmitt (the Choirmaster's Wife and son Ethan's first Choir Trip!) in the Wren Cloister, tenors and sopranos during rehearsal, Choristers on break in the Wren Cloister between rehearsal and service, Richard and Randy Manges, the Maestro leading rehearsal in the Old School Chapel.

It just occurred to me to add that not only does Lincoln contain Norman and Gothic elements, but a new library designed by Christopher Wren was added on the north side of the cloisters. Glorious! He also designed a pulpit which stands in the nave.

2007-08-19T17:44:00.001-05:00

The Cathedral

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Lincoln Cathedral has some exquisite architectural details - the wealth of Norman and Gothic stone and wood carving delights, intrigues and mesmerizes one constantly. Some of the details: the wooden vaulting of the cloister, the "Crazy" vaulting in the choir (taken from the organ loft), two views taken during the triforum and roof tour (notice how the vaulting of the nave and west end are misaligned and my finger clutching the camera while staring down a hundred feet or so thru a tiny doorway with v. little railing!), and details of the Choir Screen.

More of Lincoln Cathedral

2007-08-19T17:30:00.001-05:00

Christ Church Choir

2007-08-17T13:39:00.000-05:00

the Organ

2007-08-17T07:46:00.000-05:00

What a joy! This is one of Henry Willis' most famous instruments - also basically untouched except for some additions by Harrison & Harrison which didn't detract from the Willis work. The Great, Choir and some of the Pedal stops are in the main case, the Swell, Solo and big Pedal stops are in the Triforum. The organ is beautiful in every aspect: a rich, bright, robust sound with some of the most exquisite solo stops I've ever played.

My favorites were the Corno di Basetto on the Choir, the Orchestral Clarinet in the Solo, the Harmonic Flute in the Solo, well, in fact all the flutes, all the 8' foundations, the reeds, the strings - I loved it. It's a very expressive organ, with an incredibly responsive action for an electro-pneumatic instrument. It's capable of extreme delicacy and huge power - with a gratifying crescendo in between.

The sound of that Tutti in the vast acoustic is thrilling!

Inside the Cathedral

2007-08-17T07:34:00.001-05:00

The Cathedral

2007-08-17T07:29:00.001-05:00

What a glorious place - first of all, it's huge! You enter the Cathedral Close throught the Bailgate and in front of you is one of the most jaw-dropping facades. The Norman Cathedral's west front is nearly intact, surrounded by and extended by the gothic church. The screen is an on-going feast of visual impact - the combination of of Norman and Gothic elements creates complex counterpoint.

For a great portion of it's history each of the 3 towers had spires, the center one being 150 feet tall - making the cathedral the tallest building in the world for 200 years until the Eifel Tower. The central spire collapsed, the other 2 were taken down. Sited on the top of the hill, one can imagine the impact the sight of the cathedral made from a distance. In fact, it can still be seen from quite a ways away - when I was at Belvoir Castle the guide took me to the window and we could clearly see the Cathedral from 38 miles away!

Views of LIncoln Cathedral

2007-08-17T07:21:00.001-05:00

Lincoln

2007-08-17T07:17:00.000-05:00

Just back from the UK - where the Christ Church, Winnetka Choir, Randy Manges and I had a spectacular time! It truly was a magical week of singing, playing the magnificent Willis organ, and seeing some Very Big Houses. And, of course, there was some drama on the road, but more about that later.

From start to finish this Choir trip was absolutely the best - a v. congenial group of people, easy flights, lots of fun, and the singing was the best ever - Richard's choir was absolutely fine in all aspects. It's so wonderful to hear the choir blossom in a good acoustic - and this year his trebles were extraordinary! So confident and producing a beautiful sound.

I've got lots of pictures of Lincoln Cathedral - a truly awe-inspiring edifice - Norman, Gothic, and huge!

Off to Lincoln

2007-07-28T11:31:00.000-05:00

Two years have flown by since Christ Church's residency in Durham and now we're off to Lincoln.

We have a weekend near Cambridge Aug. 3-5 where I'll be doing the rounds of houses: Burghley, Anglesey Abbey, Wimpole Hall, Boughton, Knebworth, Holkham, Sandringham, Blicking, and perhaps (if there's time) Stowe. On Monday, the 6th, we begin our week at the Cathedral - a beautiful and large edifice on top of a v. steep hill - it can be seen for miles!

Randy Manges and I get to play the fantastic and historic Henry Willis organ. A lovely connection to this organ is that Daniel Roth played the re-opening concert following its renovation exactly 100 years after the first hearing of the organ.

There will be lots to tell - and lots of pictures!

Lincoln Cathedral

2007-07-28T11:28:00.001-05:00

Lunch at Grand Vefour

2007-04-26T21:26:00.000-05:00

David, Lionel and I had lunch at Grand Vefour - my favorite restaurant. The sun poured in thru the windows, the food was exquisite, the welcome was warm and friendly.

My Entree was a simple potato salad covered in truffles - an overwhelming aroma!

The Main course was turbot with caviar.

Dessert was an amazing creation - a chocolate cube which, when cracked open, poured out ice cream, raspberries, chocolate truffles - Stupdendous!

Vespers at the Russian Cathedral

2007-04-21T20:51:00.000-05:00

On Saturday evening, I went to The Russian Cathedral for Vespers - a profound experience. The choir sings beautifully and continually, the priests sing in strong voices - the sound of the basses! The incense rises, and most of the litrugy takes place behind the icon screen. The worshippers do not sit - they stand, light candles in front of the many icons, pray, go to confession and, when instructed by some v. insistent old women, line up in rows for various liturgical moments. On occasion, all the lights in the room are turned on and a priest comes out from behind the Iconostasis with an incense pot and we all get smoke swung at us or an important piece of the Gospel is read. Afterwards, the light go out, we're back in the candlelit room. The worshippers are intensely involved in the liturgy - it's dark, mysterious, glorious and deeply moving.

The Cathedral was built with a gift from the Czar and serves as the church, social centre, gathering place for the Russian community. There are lots of fun Russian restaurants around the church for blinis, caviar and vodka.

Parisian organ cases - les Buffets

2007-04-21T20:43:00.000-05:00

The most beautiful organ case in Paris - St. Etienne du Mont

The Choir organ at St. Roch

St. Roch - restored Cavaille-Coll organ in a beautiful church - where Andre le Notre is buried

St. Germain de Pres - I have such lovely memories of Sunday afternoon recitals here when I was a student

Mes Amis

2007-04-21T17:52:00.000-05:00

Francois Loscheider producing another gorgeous dinner

Francois expresses his extreme enthusiasm for the production of la Perichole at the Opera Comique

The best hosts in the world - at the Theatre de Champs Elysees for Ariodante

David & Lionel in the Palais Royale garden

People

2007-04-21T17:30:00.000-05:00

The Chairman and the First Lady of the Stanford Society, with Charles at Trinity College chapel

Charles Covell and attendees after Evensong at Kings

Charles and Gretchen after Evensong at Kings

Our Fabulous Lunch at Grand Vefour - Lionel's debut!

David immerses himself in Monet

Francois and Lionel in our incredibly fab (2nd row) seats at Ariodante

mes tres amis d'opera - David, Francois and Lionel - discuss something v. important after La Juive

At the Opera Comique with my opera bud

The Shepros listen to the Sulpician Titulaire's recital

Daniel at the Console

Street Scenes

2007-04-17T21:02:00.000-05:00

My cafe

I want this fabric!

THE place to buy renonculus in the R. de Buci

A flower shop

The metro near the Opera Comique

A view towards l'Eglise de Notre Dame de Lorette and on to Sacre Coeur

2007-04-16T22:06:00.000-05:00

The Jeu de Paume has been completely renovated and Monet's famous - and large - water lillies have been re-installed. Two rooms of beauty and serenity - I couldn't leave

Paris

2007-04-16T22:01:00.000-05:00

A gorgeous Louis Philippe bed - Zuber panels
An early 20th C. dining room in the M. des Arts Decoratifs
A panel from the Lalique exhibit

2007-04-16T21:44:00.000-05:00

On Tuesday, after breakfast at Deux Magots, I walked up to St. Sulpice to say hello to the organ, then to the Musee de Luxembourg to see an exhibit of jewelry by Rene Lalique - v. exquisite! A great stroll back thru St. Germain, around the Institut de France, across the Pont des Arts, and to the Louvre to see the newly renovated Musee des Arts Decoratifs - in the works for the last 10 years or so. It's an overwhelming experience - it begins with medieval arts and finishes with yesterday. After 2.5 hours I had to leave and go sit in the gardens - my brain was smoking! For example: to demonstrate the evolution of the 17th-18th C. chair they begin with Louis XIII and show an example of every transition up thru the Consulate. Stunning! The only thing to do at that point is go sit in the sunshine.

More views of Cambridge

2007-03-31T14:18:00.000-05:00

King's and Clare Colleges - the Clare bridge - The Erasmus rooms at Queens

Organs & Chapels

2007-03-30T10:46:00.000-05:00

Some views of the wondrous chapels in Cambridge: The beautiful 18th C. chapel at Clare College - "My" college - I spent a wonderful two weeks here in 1991 at the Cambridge Choral Studies Seminar - an elegant room.

On Saturday afternoon, I walked into the chapel and heard the Organ Scholar practicing for his recital (Von Beckerath organ) - he played the Bach partita on Sei gegrusset.

A view of the dome in the entrance of Clare Chapel.

The organ in Peterhouse College chapel. Queen's College Chapel - we heard an organ recital of works by Stanford and his students here.

Music in Cambridge

2007-03-30T10:39:00.000-05:00

The Cambridge University Music Society, conducted by Stephen Cleobury, sang a Stanford program in Trinity College Chapel.

Evensong - heard from the tower - at St. John's College. The Choir sang Praetorious' Magnificat Quinti toni - a glorious antiphonal work.

Springtime in Cambridge

2007-03-29T15:24:00.000-05:00

Along the Cam - The Clare Bridge -Daffodils along the King's walk -the Backs - Daffodils along the Clare walk - A view across the Cam to Clare and King's - punters on the river

Cambridge

2007-03-27T19:43:00.000-05:00

To Cambridge to spend a weekend in one of the most beautiful places on earth - actually - I think King's College Chapel IS the most beautiful place on earth - An exquisite building with that amazing fan vaulting, Flemish glass, high Tudor style, and, of course, the Choir and Organ. I've spent some magical hours there and the Stanford weekend (March 9th-11th) added to those.

I arrived in Cambridge, checked into the Lensfield Hotel (where I had the pinkest room on earth), whizzed down the road to the Chapel. Once inside, the immense thrill of seeing that interior with the light streaming in was, as always, overwhelming. So Beautiful.

The Choir sang beautifully, a capella, and it was profoundly moving to be back there, hearing the music, experiencing the sound of the music in the room, watching the light change from full sun thru the west window to darkness leaving only the dim glow of the candles on the choir stalls.

The west front of the organ case

I hadn't realised just how much I needed to get away and hear someone else make music - especially this choir - and my soul was quite joyful and renewed.

The view from the choir to the west window

The east window

Evensong at Salisbury

2006-09-14T21:34:00.001-05:00

On Wednesday, after Kingston Lacy and Wilton House, I drove into Salisbury just in time for Evensong in my favorite English cathedral. I'm not sure why I have always loved it most - the quality of the light, the beautiful Purbeck columns with the gold banding mimiced on the organ pipes, the luminous blue windows at the east end, the elegance and consistency of the vaulting, the Willis organ..... I have always loved it - and have had some several significant musical and spiritual moments here.

The service was sung by the choristers in the RSCM training course - beautifully and expressively. Howells' "O pray for the peace of Jerusalem" was magical. And, of course, hearing this sublime organ is always a treat - a magical sonority in a grand acoustic.

The Purbeck marble columns - Henry Willis copied these bands on the organ pipes of the case.

The north transept

The south organ case - you can see the gold bands on the pipes

the choristers leave the service

The view thru the Choir

Somewhere, up there in the tower, is a small diamond-shaped pane of glass with my initials incised on it. In 1985, when I first visited the Cathedral, there was an appeal for the restoration of the tower - one could, for a fee, incise something a piece of glass and it would be put in the restored window.

Castle Drogo

2006-08-21T18:00:00.000-05:00

On the way to Exeter, I stopped at Castle Drogo - a large, 20th C. house designed by Lutyens - the last castle to be built in England. Monumental, brooding over the Devon landscape, and only lived in for 60 years.

A view down the side of the castle

Lutyens is all about details - look at this doorway - so elegant!

Worcester Repertoire

2006-08-21T15:19:00.000-05:00

Monday
Gibbons: Service in A flat
Di Lasso: Jubilate Deo
Dupré: Gloria-Final

Tuesday
Bach: Dies sind die Heilgen Zehn Geboht
Wesley: Magnificat and Nunc dimittis
Viadana:Exultate Justi in Domino (Ps.33)
Mendelssohn: Prelude, c minor

Wednesday
Vierne: Symphonie No. 3 - Adagio
Wood: Service in E Flat
Gibbons: Hosanna to the Son of David
Messiaen: Les Enfants de Dieu

Friday
Couperin: Récit de tierce en taille
Harris: Magnificat and Nunc dimitts
Lange: Esto Les Digo
Reger: Toccata, d minor

Saturday
Tournemire: Cantilene
Arnold: Service in A
Purcell: O God, Thou Art My God Henry
Tournemire: Improvisation sur le Te Deum

Sunday
Eucharist
Duruflé: Veni Creator - Variations I-IV
Vaughan Williams: Mass in G Minor
Vaughan Williams: O Clap Your Hands
Mozart: Ave Verum Corpus
Duruflé: Veni Creator - Variation V

Evensong
Howells: Praeludio sine nomine
Weelkes: Magnificat and Nunc dimittis
Handel: Hallelujah, Amen
Vierne: Symphonie No. 2 - Allegro maestoso

Updates

2006-08-19T17:06:00.000-05:00

New commentary on Haddon Hall, Tewkesbury Abbey, Gloucester Cathedral

Exeter Cathedral

2006-08-19T14:44:00.000-05:00

On Tuesday, after the side trip to Barnstaple, I drove down towards Exeter, with a stop at Castle Drogo and Powderham Castle. I drove into Exeter to see the beautiful Cathedral - a wonderful building with the longest unbroken gothic vault in existence - quite beautiful with its restored bosses (the carved stone medallions in the center - some of which weigh 2 tons!). The towers are Norman but the cathedral is quite decoratively gothic and its architecture is consistent throughout the building. A choir was rehearsing for the big service of the day - so heard some beautifully sung Grieg.

The View down the nave

The view thru the Choir

A close-up of the vaulting

The organ case is the original from the 17th c., and you can see a 32' pipe in the south transept where they just made it in under the arch.

now that's close

the view from the nave past the organ and showing most of the longest gothic vault

The most exquisite ceiling in one of the Chantry Chapels

The Norman tower

People

2006-08-19T13:25:00.000-05:00

The Earl of Pembroke - owner of Wilton House

Paul & The Fox!

Matt, Gary & Dr. J in the doorway of Gloucester Cathedral

Matt & Katie

Dr. Johnson & his Couture Royal Worcester China

The Choir

Matt & Dr. Johnson waiting to go up to the Cathedral Library

More Pics from Worcester

2006-08-18T23:33:00.000-05:00

A view thru a cloister window towards the west end of the cathedral

another afternoon alone in the Cathedral - the sun was blazing thru the west window

Practicing with the headphones so not to disturb the tours - Electronic organs have one advantage!

Chittlehampton and Devon

2006-08-18T23:07:00.000-05:00

On Monday I drove down to Devon to stay with Paul and Antony in Chittlehampton. Had a flat tire on the way - long story. Paul and Antony rescued me, we went to Knightshayes Court for some more National Trust sight-seeing, then off to the cottage for a yummy dinner. The town is charming, thatched cottages, a beautiful 13th C. church on the hill.

The view up the street towards their cottage - thatched roofs everywhere! Their cottage is several centuries old - used to be a pub. Inside, the old oak beams are not straight so the ceilings have v. interesting shapes.
A view from above the village towards the church with its beautiful and commanding tower - the church was a place of pilgramage for several centuries because of a local saint

The men rescue me!

My fab Ford Focus in not so fab condition!

Chatsworth

2006-08-15T17:22:00.000-05:00

Eating lunch on a bench in the garden - dramatic skies, the Derbyshere Dales, a small corner of the house

the view from the first state room towards the Emporer Fountain

some of the extraordinary carving in the first state room

A silver chandelier in one of the state rooms - and some of the large collection of Chinese porcelain

The state Bedroom

A view across the painted hall

Haddon Hall

2006-08-15T17:04:00.000-05:00

Such a romantic and evocative place - Haddon Hall is a medieval castle, added to over the next few centuries, lastly by the family in the 16th C. (Dukes of Rutland), and then left quietly to slumber for a few centuries until the 9th Duke fell in love with it, restored it and brought it up to date in a v. careful way. It sits up on its hill, overlooking the river and valley.

There are several legends about the place - the most famous being Dorothy Vernon's elopement with John Manners during a party - they supposedly left the Long Gallery, went out the stairs by the side and thru the gardens, down into the valley.

The Long Gallery is one of the prettiest in all the Tudor houses - the light streaming thru the windows plays on oak paneling of indescribable color: is it brown, is it grey, is it beige; the color changes with the light. The carving is exquisite. The panes of glass are set at differing angles to catch the sun - the effect outside is dazzling.

The plasterwork is v. graceful.

The Great Hall is quite majestic in an intimate way. The carved screen is of the same wood as the Long Gallery.

Gloucester Cathedral

2006-08-15T16:56:00.000-05:00

A view of the Cathedral: the junction where the Norman nave immediately becomes flamboyantly English gothic!

The Cloisters have some of the most spectacular fan vaulting in all of England.

A view of the organ from the Choir.

The vaulting in the Choir.

Catch-up

2006-08-15T16:36:00.000-05:00

I'm sitting down in the lobby of the gloriously art deco Metro Palace Hotel in Bournemouth after a very eventful week - no time until now till update this and will load some pictures later.

Here's what's been happening: after seeing Tewkesbury we drove to Glouscester cathedral - a truly beautiful place, and another transitional Norman/Gothic building - v. evident at the transepts where one can actually see the new Gothic vaulting in front of the Norman south aisle. Another Gilbert Scott renovation.

We raced back to Worcester just in time for rehearsal and Evensong - and the afternoon went v. well.

Wednesday night, after dinner we all went out to hear The UK's BEST ABBA COVER BAND EVER! Fun fun fun - and everyone was partying!

On Thursday, I got up early and drove up past Birmingham, through the Derbyshire Dales and the Derwent Valley - v. slow traffic which gave me lots of opportunity to see the views - to Haddon Hall and Chatsworth - a glorious day - Haddon is dreamily romantic and evocative - a 13th C. castle that was basically left untouched by the family for a couple hundred years till it was restored in the 1920's and is truly magical. The long gallery is one of the most serene places - exquisite plasterwork and the color of the oak paneling is indescribable - sort of grayish, beigeish, brown - and v. beautiful.

Then a quick whiz around the corner to Chatsworth and the Glory! haven't been there in 20 years and it's even more impressive now that I know what i'm looking at. spent 2 v. happy hours wandering about the house - and v. happy to see it after last year's disappointment.

A long drive back to Worcester and an intense musical weekend which went v. well. We had a big, happy, noisy last dinner together at Cafe Rouge and then everyone went to pack. up at 6 am to see everyone off on the bus and no one knowing whether their plane would be going.... Got in the car and headed down to Paul and Antony's in Devon - a fast drive down the m5 and all went well till the Tiverton roundabout where the A361 was closed due to a horrific accident. So in the confusion i had to figure out a new way to Paul's and managed to get a flat tire! Luckily they came and rescued me and off we went to their gorgeous cottage in Chittlehampton - a small v. picturesque village in north Devon with a 13th c. church which has a v. nice 19th c. organ . Antony cooked a yummy dinner, we all went to bed early.

up this morning at the crack of dawn and drove to Barnstaple to get the tire fixed - a v. nice town on the west coast, full of nice people.

Then down the A377 and some v. twisty one lane roads to Castle Drogo - mammoth, towering over its hillside, v. impressive. From there a quick dash over to Powderham Castle (used for filming Remains of the Day) for another 13th c. castle added to over the last 6 centuries, brilliantly in the 18th Century, v fun and beautiful.

A quick drive into Exeter and a visit to its Wow of a Cathedral - quite flamboyantly Gothic - beautiful restored, with its original 17th c. organ case. A choir was rehearsing for the big service to celebrate The Feast of Mary so heard some Grieg - v. nice.

Left Exeter, headed east along the coast to Bournemouth - and here I am - at the Metro Palace hotel - there'll be lots of pics and commentary coming along. But internet is a little spotty to find - be patient!

Tewkesbury Abbey

2006-08-12T17:30:00.000-05:00

Wednesday - threw the Music Director, Matt and Gary in the car and whizzed down to Tewkesbury Abbey and Gloucester Cathedral. Tewkesbury is a wonderfully evocative building - transitional Norman/Gothic and saved during the Dissolution of the monasteries because the townspeople bought it from Henry VIII. It saw one of the bloodiest battles in the civil war inside the Abbey. There are two famous organs - one played by Milton!

The view from the Choir, past the Milton Organ, down the Nave.

The restored Gothic vaulting over the Choir

Hanbury Hall

2006-08-12T17:04:00.000-05:00

Tuesday - a v. fast trip just north of here to Hanbury Hall - an early 18th c. William and Mary house - lovely collection of furniture and objects - and a THORNHILL painted hall! A Big Wow! the restored 18th c. gardens are spectacular and there are espaliered pear trees!

2006-08-08T16:43:00.000-05:00

This cathedral is just stunning - a mix of styles and periods but has an enormous and charming grandeur. It's also massive - v. tall and sturdy with closely packed arches. There isn't a lot of stained glass so the sunlight pouring in on the sandstone is unlike anything anywhere - the light is a revelation. They get rather sniffy here about Scott's renovations and additions but, you know, it's glorious. Yesterday and today when I left the Choir school to go to the organ I had the cloister all to myself - all the tourists had gone - a profound and moving moment - and thru the Miserimus door into the south aisle and there it all is. At the end of the service today I was the last to leave - I had it all to myself! I walked down this glorious nave with the sunshine pouring in thru the west window - Painfully beautiful! I have to say the organ has been v. good to me - it's taken me all over and given me phenomenal experiences. Humbling and exhilirating.

The Norman crypt

The Chapter House cloister

I sit between these two fellows - Oswald and Wulfstan - the two resident saints - they're on the front of the Bishop's throne right in back of the organ console.

Some more views of the Cathedral

2006-08-08T01:35:00.000-05:00

From the organ console

The great East (Victorian) window

Thru the Choir screen to the Great West (15th C.) window

In the Cloister

The View from the Organ Bench

2006-08-08T01:19:00.000-05:00

This is my extraordinary view from the organ console - located right below the Bishop's Throne

Our First Evensong

2006-08-08T00:55:00.000-05:00

During our tour our half of the Choir sang an impromptu Magnificat in the Chapter House - magnificent acoustics - about 5 seconds! Absolutely thrillling to hear.

A view of the Choir from the Bishop's Throne

A total immersion experience! The choir sang its first Evensong beautifully - 3 Anglican chant psalms, Preces & Responses by Byrd, Mag & Nunc by Gibbons, Jubilate Deo by di Lasso - as if they've done hundreds of times before. The acoustic is v. present in the Choir and you hear the room after the music stops - a v. clean sound.

The Choir is standing on the steps of the High Altar - right in front of them is the tomb of King John who signed the Magna Carta. The reredos is high Victorian - encrusted with semi-precious stones.

The view thru the choir to the High Altar

2006-08-05T10:14:00.000-05:00

Exciting Day! Flying!

Very fun flight! thanks to Paul Reid who left a note for Francesca Weller I was upgraded to Club World and a seat that turned into a bed! V. cool, indeed. Slept like a baby.

Picked up the car at Heathrow and drove straight to Woburn Abbey - a grand Palladian house with an enviable collection of paintings, furniture, history - and in the Crypt absolute loads of Sevres! The 4th Duke was Ambassader to Louis XV and bought his porcelain while there - and Louis gave him some too - see the first pretty picture. A Fabulous Display of beautiful things!

Then back in the car to Woodstock and a v. leisurely stroll around Blenheim Palace - a Very Grand Baroque House Indeed! On Sundays there are no tours, you're free to roam so I did - back and forth through the state rooms chatting up the guides - it's such an amazingly layered collection: 17th-20th century everything! I do have to say that the Long Library is one of the best rooms on earth - peaceful, beautiful and intimate in its immensity.

Then a gorgeous drive thru the Cotswolds sunshine with a quick stop in Broadway - so beautiful - Steve Huffines: is this wisteria? at this time of year? golly.

and on to Worcester. I'd forgotten the absolute staggering beauty of the Cotswolds hills - last time I saw them Steve was driving and I remember being breathless most of the time while staring out the window - this time I was keeping one eye on the road and one eye on the gorgeousness.

Arrived at Worcester and went round to see the Cathedral - all sandstone and huge. It's another of those magnificent buildings that began as Norman and ended 15th C. decorated Gothic. Why, you can see the entire history of the building in one column - a transition point in the nave building: west side is Norman, middle is 13th C., east side 15th century!

It's going to be a glorious week - music, a beautiful cathedral to make it in, and a fun group of singers to sing with!

Off to Worcester!

2006-08-04T18:49:00.000-05:00

Saturday, August 5th - The NIU Chamber Choir and I fly off to England for a week's residency at Worcester Cathedral - singing Evensong during the week, The Sunday Eucharist and Evensong that afternoon.

I'll post daily updates about the Repertoire, services and the day-trips I'll be taking thru the beautiful countryside around Worcester - there's lots of Big Houses, Gorgeous Gardens, Views, and Fabulousness.

The Cathedral had a major restoration in the 19th Century by Gilbert Scott (you remember him from last year's trip to Durham) and the Choir is quite grand.

Unfortunately, the Hill organ is being restored so I'll be playing the Rodgers Trillium - thanks God for a good acoustic - where every drawknob gives a choice of 3 sounds - French, Baroque or English......

This is the Hill Organ Case - the organ I won't be playing........

On Sunday I'm picking up a car at Heathrow and heading to Worcester via Woburn Abbey, Blenheim Palace, Swinburne to pay respects to Nancy Mitford, hopefully a stop at the Covell Cottage and then the Fownes Hotel in Worcester.

Day trips during the first week include Hidcote Garden, Croome Court, Berrington Hall, Attingham Park, Baddesley Clinton, Elgar's birthplace, Haddon Hall, Chatsworth (to make up for last year's near miss of the last tour), Hardwick Hall (without the car drama of last year!), and a stop in Derby Cathedral (James Wyatt) to pay respects to Bess of Hardwick.

Then on the 14th I set off for Devon, Cornwall and driving back along the south coast, then north thru Wiltshire: Castle Drogo, Saltram, Cotehele, Knightshayes Court, Killerton, Kingston Lacy, Broadlands, Wilton, West Wycombe Manor, Basildon Park, Claydon, the possibilities are endless.....

Lots to see, lots of music to make!

More church views

2006-03-02T23:19:00.000-06:00

St. Severin - the beautiful pillars in the ambulatory
The south aisle of St. Medard
The ambulatory at St. Sulpice
A view into the Choir at St. Sulpice
A view of Senlis Cathedral
In the north aisle of Senlis Cathedral

Various Things

2006-03-01T22:27:00.000-06:00

Some beautiful marble in the Cammando
Marie Antoinette's worktable
a Bonnard self-portrait - saw an exhibition of his paintings at the Musee d'Art Moderne
Place des Vosges by night
St. Louis en l'Ile

Images of Versailles

2006-02-23T20:55:00.000-06:00

This is for Steve Huffines - he just loves leopard rugs so much.........
Versailles lost so many trees in the recent storms - they've replanted the gardens and, owing to the young trees, you can see the Chateau from a great distance as never before. You get a real sense of just how enormous it really is.

This is the rotunda in the stables - which are now the home of the Versailles School of Architecture -where Alan Halvorsen and Vicki Tesmer studied. It seems this is where they store un-used statuary from the chateau and gardens.
!

2006-02-21T20:04:00.000-06:00

Part of the organ tribune at St. Gervais
at St. Severin
l'Eglise des Billettes
Doggie in the Metro

More Views

2006-02-21T19:54:00.000-06:00

A view of the Musee d'Art Moderne
The Metro stop by Daniel's house.
Sunday lunch at Cador. J'adore Cador.
In the Metro - Gare de Lyon.
A beautiful view of Samaritaine.

Blvd. Voltaire

2006-02-20T20:14:00.000-06:00

David & Francois' new flat - the balcony with all the plants
The view from my bedroom - Bill and Carol Burden stayed in the apartment on the 2nd floor in the middle building 3 years ago.
the glamorous bathroom with the gorgeous teak floors - I'm still dreaming of them

More Random Pictures

2006-02-20T19:21:00.000-06:00

Some views of the Musee d'Art Moderne

The facade of St. Paul at night.
Ornamentation in the Salon des Glaces at Chatelet

Siegfried

2006-02-20T19:03:00.000-06:00

My opera pal!
Sunday afternoon we saw our third Robert Wilson production - Siegfried. Another spare stage picture with exquisite lighting, stellar singing, and Eschenbach's luxurious Wagner conducting. Mime's hut was suggested by a severe black structure which tillted backwards when Siegfried split the (non-existant) anvil. The forest scene was especially beautiful - long black curving columns which swayed slightly sheltered Fafner - a giant scary skull blasting smoke underneath flashing green eyes.
We had 3 pairs of seats so we changed seats for all 3 three acts - David and I ended up in the second balcony at the far end right above the stage. V. exciting!

A glorious way to end the Paris trip! Afterwards, we met Tony and Francois (IV) for dinner at Cafe Zimmer, then we finished off the last of the Berthillon ice cream.

2006-02-18T16:04:00.000-06:00

On Saturday evening, Pam and Tom Sheffield both celebrated Important Birthdays with a fun bash - the evening began with a reception at a gallery run by friends, then we whizzed across the Blvd. Raspail to la Rotonde for dinner - 20 of us. A v. fun crowd: artists, sculptors, gallery owners, 17th century painting restorers, and a couple of musicians. A five-course yummy dinner was v. festive and the conversation, In French, was FAST!

Around 11:20 the cake appeared, blazing with sparklers, thrust between Pam and Daniel!

One feared that the Sulpician Titulaire was going to go up in a blaze!

A v. amusing part of the evenings was the view between Pam and Daniel - Rodin's large statue of Balzac outside on the Blvd. - a stunning view of dear friends and great art.

The next morning, in spite of the fact that the party went on till all hours, (I folded about 12:40) Pam, Tom and Odile were fresh and lively at the Audition at St. Sulpice!

Rue Mouffetard

2006-02-18T09:23:00.000-06:00

One afternoon I took a stroll up one of my favorite streets - the Rue Mouffetard. At the bottom of the hall is the church of St. Medard set in an interesting Place. The street itself is a perfect example of a Parisian street market made charming by its location, architecture and the way it winds up the hill behind the Pantheon. The things you can buy!
Pastries set out like jewels.
Cheeses! Cheeses! Cheeses! The aroma!!!

The seafood!
Coquilles St. Jacques - the real thing.

More Corbusier

2006-02-18T09:19:00.000-06:00

Food & Corbusier

2006-02-17T23:47:00.000-06:00

Saturday morning - off to the 16th for a quick walk around Auteuil - a stop into Notre Dame d'Auteuil and heard the renovated Cavaille-Coll. Then just a short stroll to Beth and Francois' for lunch with them and their three sons. (Beth sang the Mozart concert.) Escargots, Salmon, cheese, and dessert. Great food, great conversation.

Then a quick climb up the hill to the Villa la Roche, one of the first houses designed by Corbusier, and a pristinely beautiful place. The art gallery is one of the most spiritual places I know.

Friday

2006-02-17T23:36:00.000-06:00

After wandering around the Cammando for a v. long time, listening to the audio guide and generally sinking into an 18th century daze, I realised I was late for lunch at Daniel and Odile's. So, a quick dash on the Metro to R. Eugene Carriere for a v. delicious lunch, as always. Odile is a wonderful cook - she's been feeding me French specialities since 1979! I had my first boudin noir there. Afterwards Daniel and I watched a tape of a concert conducted by his son, Francois. Brilliant. it's always wonderful to return to their home - the welcome is always so warm, and the memories of going there every day to practice (in 1979-80) and for lessons are wonderful. It's a real touchstone for me. It's always a thrill to enter this elegant lobby, knowing who's upstairs!

That evening David and Francois cooked a yummy dinner for me, Lionel & Francois - lots of fun. Not only do David & Francois do fabulous renovations, they're great hosts.

David in the Salon.
Lionel, Francois, Francois - everyone I know in Paris has a Francois!
David & Lionel in the glamorous kitchen.
Lionel & Francois checking text messages.

Musee Nissim de Cammando

2006-02-16T22:13:00.000-06:00

These are a few of my favorite things....

Gorgeous furniture, objets, paintings, porcelain, things......

The Musee Nissim de Cammando is a collection in a private home built by Moises Cammando - a man of exquisite taste, a patient discerning collector, and a man whose love of a few particular decades of the 18th century has left us this incredible vision.

The Museum is named for his son - killed in the last days of World War I.

After Nissim's death, Moises devoted himself to this collection, planning to leave it to the nation.
His daughter, Beatrice, her husband and two children died in Auschwitz.

The building, by Rene Sergent, is based on the Petite Trianon.

It's a magical place, exquisite, perfect and very poignant.

Madama Butterfly

2006-02-15T18:42:00.000-06:00

Although Mitterand picked the wrong model for the new opera house - legend has it that he was told to choose the second from left or whatever and that would be Richard Meier - he was confused and chose the second from right or whatever - and so we're left with a v. disfunctional building that, never-the-less, is one of my favorite places to hear opera. Once you're inside the theatre it's perfect: flawless sight-lines everywhere, good acoustics, comfy seats, and the design of the house is such that the room disappears and your attention is completely focussed on the stage picture. And, if you trek all the way up to the top floor lobby the view across Paris is one of the best! Take a glass of champagne and a smoked-salmon sandwich up there before the first act and enjoy Paris at sunset - glorious.

For some reason at this performace the ceiling lights were not on during the intervals - and the view was dramatic!

This has to be the most moving, emotionally engaging, profoundly tragic and thrillingly sung Butterfly I've ever heard. A Robert Wilson production, it was stark and beautiful. Literally, one chair on the stage. Or a simple head-rest. Or a small object held by one of the singers. Every movement was slow and stylized, everything was suggested rather than acted, the simplest movement, therefore, carrying extreme emotional impact. (This was true of his Siegfried and Gotterdamerung also.) Butterfly simply crumpled to the floor rather than stabbing herself - a minimal motion that was riveting and shattering.

Butterfly was sung by a Chinese soprano - Liping Xhing - she's the one in the center with bare shoulders - and I have to say, having heard some pretty amazing women sing this role, she was absolutely the best. A gorgeous, supple, expressive voice - a riveting presence. David stood in line at an un-godly hour to get us tickets - we were in the second row center - the impact of this production and singing left us both speechless and drained. We had to collect ourselves a bit.

Once back at Blvd. Voltaire we were revived by Francois and his stupendous crepes - a tradition on Feb. 2 - Candlemas. Yum! He so fabulous!

Bofinger

2006-02-14T19:37:00.000-06:00

On Thursday evening David and I had a very Un-French Early Dinner before the opera at Bofinger - a wonderful, old, Alsatian Brasserie just off the Place de Bastille. I had the Choucroute - v. tasty and filling. A little heavy for sitting thru Madame Butterfly. But, a Big Yum!

Dinner

2006-02-14T19:17:00.000-06:00

After leaving La Motte Tilly we drove back to Laurance's charming house for dinner with friends Gareth and Dana - he's English, she's American - and they're lots of fun. And, best of all, Laurance's sweet doggie!

After dinner we had to get me to the train - we left a bit late - so there was a James Bond drive thru the country-side to the station in Nemours - we made it with one minute to spare! Fab driving Gareth.

La Motte Tilly

2006-02-14T19:03:00.000-06:00

After the visit to Fontainebleau and a quick lunch at a Tabac, we drove down to La Motte Tilly - a beautiful chateau that had been in the same family for over 200 years. The last owner, the Marquise de Maille, the only surviving member of the family having outlived her parents, her brother and her daughter, left the house to the State with the proviso that no one could live there, the house must be open to visitors, and nothing could be changed. It's a perfect example of how modern people can live in an old house with 18th century furniture and 20th century conveniences. Exquisite!

The gardens were restored at the beginning of the 20th century - this is the view from the center of the house down to the Mirroir d'eau - with the Seine beyond.

The Beautiful stair hall.

The approach to the chateau.

Another view of the parterre.

More Random Views

2006-02-12T17:45:00.000-06:00

A view up the stairs at a cafe in Montmartre near Daniel's home

A ceiling in the Metro

An amusing clock in the Petit Palais

A doorway made by Lalique

Maire Antoinette

2006-02-12T14:11:00.000-06:00

Marie Antoinette's last commision from Riesener was the furniture for this small salon at Fontainebleau. It's such perfection - mother-of-pearl and steel! The decor is neo-classicism at its peak - and she never saw it......

The decor and furniture were finished and installed after the royal family left Versailles for Paris and their eventual imprinsonment.

In the 19th Century this room became the Empress' Boudoir and a small Salle de Bain was installed in the room just beyond - which you can now see thru the window. Laurance decided to get a closer look at the elegant tub so she stepped across the barrier, the alarm went off, the guard came! However, this being Fontainebleau and not Versailles, it was not much of a fuss - no French jail for us!

Absolute perfection - a splendor that is restrained and beautiful.

It's mad, it's intoxicating, it's heart-breaking.

Random Images

2006-02-11T22:26:00.000-06:00

In the Musee d'Art Moderne

Sun on trees - Versailles

A view of St. Sulpice

A door

A door - Senlis Cathedral

Fontainebleau

2006-02-11T20:54:00.000-06:00

Finally made it to Fontainebleau and Laurance and I had a fab time strolling around this amazing chateau savoring the history and architecture. it's an exciting compendium of French royal style - begun by Francois I (one of our favorites), and added to/decorated/updated by Louis XIV, Louis XV, Marie Antoinette, Napolean and Napolean III. Fascinating.

These are the famous stairs where Napolean bade his farewell to his troops before going off to exile.

Le Train Bleu

2006-02-11T20:45:00.000-06:00

On Wednesday I took the train out to Fontainebleau to spend the day at the Chateau with Laurance. A slight snafu in the Gare de Lyon and I missed the train. But so not a problem!

I just marched myself into le Train Bleu for coffee and croissants. This is one of my favorite places to sit in Paris - designed by Charles Garnier, the architect of the opera house, it's just as over-the-top and crazy. I'd seen it for years in movies and I get a big kick out of visiting here. And, the food's quite good. So after a v. pleasant half hour I got on the train and made it to the country.

Versailles Part 4 - Views from the Garden

2006-02-10T08:39:00.000-06:00

Versailles Part 3 - Views from the Petite Trianon

2006-02-09T22:28:00.000-06:00

So perfect......

So exquisite......

So evocative......

So poignant.......

Versailles Part 2

2006-02-09T22:20:00.000-06:00

Vinci, the parking company, has financed the restoration of the hall of mirrors - they've finished half and are now working on the far end. The restorations is quite beautiful - there's blue up there - who knew. It was all brown before - now there's color! The marble's been polished, the hall's been re-gilded, the mirrors re-silvered, and a new parquet de Versailles has been laid. Completely breathtaking.

Versailles Part 1

2006-02-09T22:11:00.000-06:00

I hadn't really planned to visit Versailles this trip - I've taken every private tour one can - including one magical tour where the guide actually took us past the ropes into Marie Antoinette's private rooms - anyway..... I read about the restoration of the Hall of Mirrors and realised I had to see it. And, of course, one never really needs a special reason to go back o the Petite Trianon.

Some views of the Chapel -

The gorgeous Clicquot organ case.

A view across the Royal Tribune.

A view through the doors - so beautiful.

At the Opera!

2006-02-09T18:42:00.000-06:00

We saw the controversial new production of Don Giovanni at Garnier - more about that later. Here's some views of the evening!

David in the box.

Me in the box.

Lionel, Me, Francois - in the Foyer.

Curtain call - the opera took place in a high-rise lobby at La Defense! Incredible production! More later I promise.

On the way to the Opera

2006-02-09T18:40:00.000-06:00

Pierrefonds and Compiegne

2006-02-09T18:18:00.000-06:00

After leaving Senlis we drove towards Pierrefonds - the large castle owned by the Orleans family, destroyed several centuries ago, rebuilt by Napolean III and Violet-le-Duc. V. romantic and beauifully situated on a high hill at the south end of the Compiegne forest.

We then drove thru the forest to Compiegne to The Theatre Imperial for Le Toreador. The opera house was built by Napolean III in an 18th-Century style - v. elegant and quite restrained for the Second Empire. Unfortunately, they ran out of time to decorate the boiseries - a nasty little Prussian war..... so the interior was simply painted. The acoustics are sublime - the interior being all wood - v. resonant and warm. One can look at the drawings in the Imperial Salon to see how it should have been finished. Personally, I rather like it the way it is.

The opera was v. well sung, engaging, more coloratura than Lucia, crisp orchestra playing, and I seemed to be the only one laughing at the funny bits.

Senlis

2006-02-09T18:05:00.000-06:00

Sunday afternoon (the 29th) David and I drove up to Compiegne to see Adolphe Adam's v. amusing opera Le Toreador - more notes per square inch than Rossini and Mozart including his brilliant variations on "ah, vous diri j'ai maman". On the way there we stopped in Senlis to see the cathedral and town.

The cathedral is glorious, the west end being Romanesque, proceeding thru early Gothic right into flamboyant as you can see from the picture of the south transept above. Very magical in the afternoon sunlight.

The town is quite old - founded by the Romans. There are houses from 12th-13th century up thru 18th.

A view towards the south transept.

Looking toward the Choir.

A view down the choir and nave towards the Merklin organ. You can see the arch above the organ is much lower than the nave vaults - there was a fire and the cathedral rebuilt - much taller and lighter.

Sunday Organ Tour

2006-02-08T20:49:00.000-06:00

We start off at L'Eglise des Billettes for the 10 AM organ recital - more often than not all Bach although I've also heard Dupre, Mendelssohn and some other moderns on this robustly expressive Mulheisen organ. Giles Harle played these two Sundays, including a powerful Aus Tiefer not.

The church, which is Lutheran, is part of an historic complex that once was a convent. The cloister next door now houses art exhibitions, the Lutherans sing their chorales with vigor, and the Pastor wears a severe black robe with preaching tabs.

At 10:30 you run across the Rue des Archives to the newest Starbucks in Paris - of course the Parisians are scandalized but they're flocking in anyway - for a quick coffee before you whiz around the corner to St. Gervais - the church where the Couperin family were Organists for over 200 years. The Clicqout organ has been restored and it's a thrill to hear the sounds Francois played.

And, by the way for the architects, one can see the first use of the classical orders in Paris on the facade of the church. (That picture will appear on another post.)

The you whiz across the Seine to the Ile Saint Louis into St. Louis en l'Ile to hear the newest organ in Paris built by Aubertin - a beautiful case, a very interesting specification and a beautiful sound in one of Paris' most elegant churches.

You can't stay long and you have to be v. good not to stop in next door at Berthillon for the world's absolute best ice cream - the Chocolate Sorbet is the most intense and creamy sorbet I've ever eaten - but you have to get moving in order to hear the prelude at Notre Dame.

Depending on which of the Titulaires is playing, it's either incredible or ........ We love Olivier Latry, he's a an organ god, but we're not naming other names........

Then a fast sprint across the river again, past the oldest surviving tree in Paris, into the apse of St. Severin to hear one of my three favorite organs in Paris - the Kern.

A few gorgeous sounds and then you race down the Rue St. Andre des Arts, into the Rue de Buci, and if you're lucky, the line outside Carton is not too long and you can dash in for the best Pain au Chocolate in Paris and a great pick-me-up. Then you keep moving so that you arrive at St. Sulpice for the Audition by the Titulaire.

After the Audition finishes, you wait patiently behind the tourists ascending to the Tribune and once they've seen the console you greet Daniel and hear his amazing and inspired improvisations during the organ mass. Completely Thrilling to hear it and reflect on the men who have been titulaires here, not to mention the many other personages who visited or played here: Liszt, Schweitzer, Saint-Saens, Guilmant, Franck, Faure to name a few.

Then you go to lunch.

Mozart at St. Sulpice

2006-02-07T20:03:00.000-06:00

An amazing surprise - my friend Beth, the glamorous Elizabeth Procuronoff, sang Mozart with orchestra and chorus the night I arrived. A big celebration of Mozart's birthday, she sang his Exultate Jubilate, excerpts from the Requiem, and The Coronation Mass. I've known Beth since Northwestern days - she also was my Mezzo in the quartet at Second Presbyterian in 1980. She now lives in Paris with her husband Francois and their three sons and not only sings gorgeously, with impeccable coloratura and great expressiveness, she also makes delicious escargots! It was so great to hear her sing again. Isn't it spectacular: Beth in Paris singing beautifully, Richetta Manager (the Soprano from the quartet) in Germany singing beautifully - we had no idea no idea back then that we'd all be doing what we are blessed to do now.

Deux Magots

2006-02-07T19:39:00.000-06:00

The only way to start a week in Paris is with the most perfect cup of hot chocolate at Deux Magots - my idea of a corner of heaven. There's something about the light pouring into that room, bouncing off the beautiful tiles of the floor, shining on the tables and reflecting in the mirrors that completely soothes me, makes me happy. Add a Croque Monsieur and you're energised, ready to hit the streets of the world's most gorgeous city.

RBH at Villa la Roche

2006-02-07T19:34:00.000-06:00